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What does Vogue’s new editorial lead mean for the brand?

Chloe Malle has been named editorial lead of American Vogue. The self-confessed ‘nepo baby’ marks a new chapter for a former fashion mecca that seems to have lost its way. 

Anna Wintour stepped back from American Vogue in July of this year, signalling a seismic shift for the editorial powerhouse amidst growing criticism around its political stance and commercial priorities.

Wintour had been at the helm for 37 years, and her departure – both sudden and relatively understated – was a shock to the industry. Since then, the rumour mill has gone into overdrive as fashion fanatics search for clues as to who would replace her.

Well, the biggest job in fashion has finally been filled. Vogue announced this week that editorial staffer Chloe Malle would be stepping into Wintour’s shoes (or at least, heading the editorial arm of the brand – her formal title is ‘head of editorial content’ rather the ‘editor-in-chief’, and she’ll likely sit beneath Wintour who continues as Condé Nast’s Chief Content Officer).

Malle is an unlikely choice. At 39 she’s considerably younger than her predecessor and despite having worked at Vogue – as well as several prominent fashion media outlets – and hosting the ‘Run-Through with Vogue’ podcast alongside British Vogue head Chioma Nnadi, she’s hardly a house-hold name.

The same can’t be said about her parents. Malle’s mother is actor Candice Bergen (who, in a real full-circle moment, played Vogue’s editor-in-chief in Sex and the City), and her father is French screenwriter Louis Malle.

Since her new role was announced, Malle’s family tree has been the topic of much debate and backlash. Some are unsurprised at the decision to place a white, wealthy woman in fashion’s biggest office – others, simply disappointed.

But Malle’s sizable promotion comes during a turbulent time for Vogue, fashion, and America at large.

Anna Wintour stepped down just days before the American Vogue cover was revealed to feature Lauren Sanchez ahead of her wedding to Amazon billionaire Jeff Bezos. At the time, the couple were being heavily criticized for their opulent lifestyle and exorbitantly lavish nuptials amid economic downturn.

For a media outlet like Vogue, which has long fancied itself both a fashion pioneer and disruptive socio-political commentator, the decision to feature Sanchez was undeniably out of step. So much so, that many speculated Wintour’s departure had something to do with it.

I had a serious case of deja-vu, then, when I read this week that Vanity Fair had landed in hot water after proposing a Melania Trump cover. According to The New York Post, employees had threatened to quit after Mark Guiducci – the company’s new head of editorial content – had approached Melania about the feature. As it turns out, she reportedly turned it down.

Malle’s stint as editorial head will come with its own shifts for Vogue, but perhaps those things that make her an unsurprising contender – her race, class, and forgettable style – are just what the company needs right now.

As Amy Odell described her, Malle is a ‘safe, competent choice’ during Vogue’s uncertain political standing.

‘Malle seems like someone who can capably and enthusiastically take on the drudgery of running a valuable media brand for a legacy shop like Condé Nast in 2025.’

‘These media jobs are unfortunately less about creative ambition than ever before, as managers must wrestle with ever-evolving platforms and content budgets cuts as they play whack-a-mole with technical threats like AI.’

This makes roles like editorial lead considerably undesirable for the vast majority of us. Particularly at a company as prominent and stretched as American Vogue.

Malle certainly knows this company, too. She first joined Vogue in 2011 and most recently served as editor of the website. These credentials – she believes – make her worthy of her new role, not her parents’ flourishing Hollywood careers.

In fact, during a sprawling interview with the New York Times, Malle labelled herself a ‘proud nepo baby’.

She went on to rehearse the usual points made by those raised with immense privilege – that having successful parents pushed her to work harder than ever; that it gave her something to prove.

I don’t doubt that’s true, but isn’t it for anyone? (Stating that wealthy parents push you to word harder implies that any other reality wouldn’t bear the same fruit; that a working class upbringing doesn’t drive you in much the same way; that poor people don’t juggle numerous jobs and work all the hours god sends just to put food on the table).

Regardless, Malle’s new role kicks off effective immediately – meaning that at the time of writing, she’s already one of the most important figures in one of the world’s biggest industries. Whether you like it or not, Vogue’s new era has officially begun.

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