Fashion houses are being slammed for exclusively featuring waif thin models on their catwalks in recent seasons. Has the body positivity movement been undone already?
The last decade has been a celebration of arriving at an era where body positivity and inclusivity was present not just in fashion, but in television, film, and other mainstream media.
Though it wasn’t perfect, the greater acceptance for and prevalence of different shapes and sizes on our many screens was welcomed by numerous generations – especially those who’d had diet culture shoved down their throats for most of their lives.
We relished in watching curvier models like Ashley Graham, Precious Lee, and Paloma Elsesser rise to success and strut confidently down the runway, while pop music charts were dotted with self-esteem-boosting anthems by artists like Lizzo, Jessie J, and Anne-Marie.
But as of late, there’s been a perceptible slowing down of the body positive movement. Celebrities famous for their ‘thicc’ aesthetic have stepped out with noticeably thinner physiques out of nowhere, while already-skinny legends have are slimming down even further.
While very few will admit to using them, many prominent figures owe their new, tiny frames to the popularity of injectable weight loss drugs like Ozempic. And rather than being a mere aesthetic choice, this change can be attributed to wider shifts in cultural values and the return of political conservatism globally.
Fashion – which has always been political – has also become a form of mass entertainment. With runways returning to their default settings, becoming void of size-diverse models once again, many are asking: is the body positive movement officially over?
As it reported in its most recent size inclusivity report, Vogue Business found that of 8,703 looks in 198 most recent autumn/winter fashion shows, only 2 percent of models were midsize and only 0.3 percent were plus-size.
Comparing to figures from spring fashion shows – which took place last September and October – these numbers indicate a notable downward trend in diverse models on runways.
Still, it’s worth mentioning that diverse body types were largely missing from spring/summer events already, with SS24 shows including only 0.8 percent plus-size looks and 4 percent midsize.
Data from Tagwalk, the fashion industry search engine, confirms these trends. Last season, the database recorded a 16 percent drop in fashion houses that included even one curve model compared with the season before.
By the end of 2023, British Vogue had already picked up on the early signs of the disappearance of body inclusivity, noting that less than 1 percent of models in AW23 collections were plus-sized.
In recent seasons, spectators aren’t just concerned about the decline in curve models on the runway.
What is concerning is that already-thin models appear to be getting even thinner, with attendees reported seeing ‘even more visible rib cages, jutting collarbones’ than in the last few years.
With fashion TikTok drawing inspiration from catwalks and young girls using platforms like Pintrest to create mood boards from fashion show images, the resurgence and dominance of waif thin models could have dangerous repercussions for the body-image and self-confidence of young people.
Fashion houses were slammed by journalists for bringing back ‘clothes hanger’ models, while model agents claimed that the industry seems to have treated curvier models ‘as a fad in fashion rather than something that is real life’.
While some fashion designers blame the lack of mid and plus size models on their runways on a time management issue – these models were allegedly not booked early enough to have the clothing fitted to their bodies – others have blamed the rising use of weight loss drugs.
They point to Ozempic and other similar drugs as the culprit when it comes to the disappearance of mid-size and plus size models and the ultra-thin models currently present on the runway.
Plus-size and mid-size models are becoming thin models, while those who were already thin are getting thinner, they say.
It’s also worth mentioning how the political landscape impacts the way we look, act, and dress.
It’s no secret that there has been a sharp return into conservatism, with the return of Trump and right-wing leaders gaining popularity in Europe.
And while sociopolitical movments like #MeToo and Black Lives Matter successfully pressured brands into diversifying their runways, another set of values is now taking centre stage.
This widespread return to conservative and traditional values is not just manifesting itself in political policy, but it is also evident when you look at which influencers are becoming popular (tradwives and alt-right podcasters), and this is now being reflected in fashion where old-fashioned archetypes of beauty are being celebrated.
As anyone who grew up in the 90s will know, these ‘old fashion archetypes’ are unfortunately, but of course, comprised of white, ultra-thin models – despite the fact that these body types are rare to come by outside of the fashion world.
It is indeed a question worth asking. The good news is, we have free will. We can choose which trends are worth following, and like every ‘body trend’ of the past… we should know by now that this one won’t last.
Deputy Editor & Content Partnership ManagerLondon, UK
I’m Jessica (She/Her). I’m the Deputy Editor & Content Partnership Manager at Thred. Originally from the island of Bermuda, I specialise in writing about ocean health and marine conservation, but you can also find me delving into pop culture, health and wellness, plus sustainability in the beauty and fashion industries. Follow me on Twitter, LinkedIn and drop me some ideas/feedback via email.
Social media loves a good portion of cosplay. First, it was 50s family values, and now we are back in ancient times.
Do you remember tradwives? The familiar soft voices and long dresses are back. This time, though, the kitchen has been swapped by nature, adhering to mostly Western influencers' reinterpretation of spirituality to empower women.
They're easy to spot if you still haven't met divine feminine influencers. Just type words...
Women are building strength for themselves, but a culture still rooted in fear of female power isn’t ready to let go of patriarchal body ideals.
The female body has long been asked to shrink. That demand was both physical and philosophical. As a culture we’ve prized quietness and smallness in women, with the latter becoming somewhat of a shorthand for virtue – i.e, the less space you occupied, the more...
With a utilitarian focus on what food can do for us rather than how it tastes, coupled with a growing aversion to the humble doggy bag, have we forgotten what it means to appreciate the things that contribute to our wellbeing and keep us alive?
A stroll through the aisles of most supermarkets these days presents a blaze of similarly shaped fonts, all advertising one key nutrient in our groceries:...
Reports have found that synthetic fibres contain dangerous and carcinogenic chemicals.
A Consumer Reports study has found that the ingredients used in synthetic hair across a range of popular brands – including Magic Fingers, Sensationnel and Shake-N-Go, have the potential to cause cancer.
Braids have been the site of care and resistance for centuries within the Black community, serving as protection from the heat and other environmental factors. This follows a rich...
We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. If you continue to use this site we will assume that you are happy with it.Ok
0 Comments
