Size inclusivity is disappearing from fashion runways once again

As it reported in its most recent size inclusivity report, Vogue Business found that of 8,703 looks in 198 most recent autumn/winter fashion shows, only 2 percent of models were midsize and only 0.3 percent were plus-size.

Comparing to figures from spring fashion shows – which took place last September and October – these numbers indicate a notable downward trend in diverse models on runways.

Still, it’s worth mentioning that diverse body types were largely missing from spring/summer events already, with SS24 shows including only 0.8 percent plus-size looks and 4 percent midsize.

Data from Tagwalk, the fashion industry search engine, confirms these trends. Last season, the database recorded a 16 percent drop in fashion houses that included even one curve model compared with the season before.

By the end of 2023, British Vogue had already picked up on the early signs of the disappearance of body inclusivity, noting that less than 1 percent of models in AW23 collections were plus-sized.

In recent seasons, spectators aren’t just concerned about the decline in curve models on the runway.

What is concerning is that already-thin models appear to be getting even thinner, with attendees reported seeing ‘even more visible rib cages, jutting collarbones’ than in the last few years.

@oldversace

#balmain

♬ original sound – oldversace

With fashion TikTok drawing inspiration from catwalks and young girls using platforms like Pintrest to create mood boards from fashion show images, the resurgence and dominance of waif thin models could have dangerous repercussions for the body-image and self-confidence of young people.

Fashion houses were slammed by journalists for bringing back ‘clothes hanger’ models, while model agents claimed that the industry seems to have treated curvier models ‘as a fad in fashion rather than something that is real life’.

While some fashion designers blame the lack of mid and plus size models on their runways on a time management issue – these models were allegedly not booked early enough to have the clothing fitted to their bodies –  others have blamed the rising use of weight loss drugs.

They point to Ozempic and other similar drugs as the culprit when it comes to the disappearance of mid-size and plus size models and the ultra-thin models currently present on the runway.

Plus-size and mid-size models are becoming thin models, while those who were already thin are getting thinner, they say.

It’s also worth mentioning how the political landscape impacts the way we look, act, and dress.

It’s no secret that there has been a sharp return into conservatism, with the return of Trump and right-wing leaders gaining popularity in Europe.

And while sociopolitical movments like #MeToo and Black Lives Matter successfully pressured brands into diversifying their runways,  another set of values is now taking centre stage.

This widespread return to conservative and traditional values is not just manifesting itself in political policy, but it is also evident when you look at which influencers are becoming popular (tradwives and alt-right podcasters), and this is now being reflected in fashion where old-fashioned archetypes of beauty are being celebrated.

As anyone who grew up in the 90s will know, these ‘old fashion archetypes’ are unfortunately, but of course, comprised of white, ultra-thin models – despite the fact that these body types are rare to come by outside of the fashion world.

In light of all this, women everywhere will be asking the same question: ‘when will our bodies stop being treated like trends?’

It is indeed a question worth asking. The good news is, we have free will. We can choose which trends are worth following, and like every ‘body trend’ of the past… we should know by now that this one won’t last.

Why bother bending to it?