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New York’s cosmetology law is breaking beauty barriers

A new requirement – that students learn to style textured hair as part of their training – is signalling change for the global beauty industry. 

The beauty industry has always been somewhat of a minefield for the Black community, who often find themselves on the fringes of an ostensibly inclusive business.

Despite positive changes in the beauty space, including the rise of Black-owned businesses and the proliferation of products designed with Black consumers in mind, education has continued to fall behind.

For those training as cosmetologists, learning how to style textured hair has always been a nice-to-have. This has only exacerbated the stigma around textured hair, feeding into narratives that it’s ‘unmanageable’ and difficult to work with.

As a result, finding a stylist and salon to suit your needs is a privilege many Black consumers aren’t afforded. Even in 2023.

But a new law in New York state has signalled a positive change for the beauty industry. Now, all cosmetology students will be legally required to learn about – and style – textured hair in order to pass their course.

Graduates should be able to provide hair care services ‘to individuals with all hair types and textures, including, but not limited to, various curl and wave patterns, hair strand thickness, and volumes of hair’ the bill states.

The Professional Beauty Association’s Texture Education Collective will be supporting schools to update their curriculums accordingly. As well as updating resources and guidance for students, the change will also mean implementing more diverse hair models and mannequins.

As well as putting their cosmetology qualification in jeopardy, those that don’t comply with the new law could face civil penalties.

Response to the news has been largely positive. New York State Senator Jamaal T. Bailey, who introduced the bill in April 2023, echoed much of the public when he said ‘It’s not only common sense, [it’s] the right thing to do’.

For those championing the bill, it was a no-brainer. And social media has been echoing this sentiment.

‘If you offer services to the public you should be expected to provide said services to ALL paying clients’ said one Instagram user.

‘[This] Should be required everywhere and always,’ said another.

One of the key advantages of this legislation is that it not only benefits individuals with textured hair but also enhances the skills and marketability of aspiring cosmetologists.

As the beauty landscape evolves to embrace diversity, professionals equipped with a broad range of skills are better positioned to meet the needs of an increasingly diverse clientele.

The positive online response to New York’s law reflects a broader shift in societal attitudes towards beauty standards.

People are increasingly challenging conventional norms, and demanding a more inclusive representation of beauty in the media, fashion, and beauty industries.

This legislative step aligns with these changing perceptions, signalling a commitment to dismantling outdated norms and embracing a more diverse and inclusive future.

While some critics argue that legislation alone is not enough and that a cultural shift within the beauty industry is required to truly effect change, the positive response highlights a growing awareness of the need for diversity and representation within beauty education.

For hairstylists like Nai’vasha – who has worked with celebrity clients like Tracee Ellis Ross – the bill has been a long time coming.

‘When you talk about colour, when you talk about chemically treated hair, when you talk about curling hair, straightening hair, anything that requires heat, all the way down to our shampooing and how to detangle different textures… that should automatically be a part of the conversation and a part of the educational journey, because all textures matter.’

Some social users have argued a legal implementation is too extreme a solution. But it’s undeniable that a formal legislation has the most impact – both as a non-negotiable, and a powerful tool for influence.

Increasing education around textured hair will ultimately create a more inclusive space for all customers to enjoy the beauty industry. In turn, archaic beauty standards can start to shift.

For those who have long paid a price for simply existing outside of Western ideals, this law marks a moment of recognition – an assurance that beauty really does come in all shapes, sizes, colours and textures.

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