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Hijabi ex-model Halima Aden to address modest fashion’s diversity problem

Aden denounced modelling last year, but her latest decision to work in modest fashion sheds fresh light on an immutable industry.

Halima Aden, the first hijabi to grace the cover of Sports Illustrated, defiantly quit modelling last November.

In the wake of her career change, she is now turning her sights to the roots of fashion’s diversity issues. Aden plans to design clothes for the Turkish brand Modanisa, one of the biggest names in the modest fashion industry.

She sees it as a firm response to feeling like a ‘minority within a minority’ in a modelling industry that lacked ‘basic human respect’.

Aden’s statements are hardly shocking. Models ­­– from rookies to luminaries – have lamented the fashion industry’s dark underbelly for years.

But for hijabi models, the lack of representation can seem a hurdle too great to surmount. Aden is the only hijabi to have landed a British Vogue cover, while in the US, Somali-American Ugbad Abdi remains the first and last to have featured on its US tributary.

It’s no coincidence that Abdi’s campaign ‘Beauty Without Borders’ features women from ‘around the world’. When hijabis gain traction in this industry, Aden says, their difference becomes ‘a gimmick’.

As demands for diversity grow, Western publications are increasingly signposted for what can be perceived as shallow displays of ‘worldly’ inclusivity.

Aden has now successfully divorced herself from an industry she felt was incompatible with her faith. ‘I was always given a box, a private place to change in, but many times I was the only one’, she told Voa News last week.

This comes at a crucial time for Muslim consumers. Despite modest fashion being valued at a staggering $277 billion, hijabi women still feel that luxury designers aren’t catering to their needs.

The main issue is that Muslim’s are not marketed to appropriately, despite accounting for 1.8 billion of the population.

Few luxury brands, for example, market headscarves as ‘hijab’ or ‘headcovering’, though they offer items long enough to cover the head and neck.

Even when brands do offer modest options, they can lack style and quality. Rawdah Mohammed, a Somali-Norwegian model, believes brands need to work harder to include Muslim women in fashion’s conversations.

Prominent companies have recently made strides in reaching modest audiences, with Nike launching their PRO hijab in 2016.

But ticking a box is not the same as understanding Muslim culture or its consumers.  E-commerce giant Net-a-porter has released annual Ramadan edits since 2017, but fails to distinguish between the holiday and its conclusive Eid celebrations, when individuals splurge on glamorous outfits in order to look their best.

Those seeking modest wardrobes are still often excluded from the mainstream, with hijabi-inclusive styles listed separately on retail sites. This only erects new borders between Muslim and non-Muslim communities.

Sadly, it is largely economic gain that motivates luxury forays into the modest market.

According to the Islamic Economy Report, Muslim’s spent $283 billion on apparel in 2018. Incentives to cater for this market continue to grow, as DinarStandard predicts Muslim consumers will spend $402 billion on clothing by 2024.

Aden’s decision to design for Modanisa is a hopeful nod to a more inclusive fashion landscape. But it’s high time Western luxury followed suit.

After all, it’s not just about marketing to hijabi women, but ensuring they are given access to the rooms in which these decisions are made, so they can call the shots themselves.

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