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Is California’s textile recycling bill a fashion revolution?

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Brighton, UK
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The legislation could mark a watershed moment for sustainability in fashion. But can it do enough to change things? 

California is on the verge of passing a groundbreaking bill that could reshape the fashion industry’s environmental footprint. The Textile Recycling Bill (or SB 707), is currently advancing through the state legislature, and aims to hold fashion brands accountable for the waste they produce.

SB 707 has already passed recent California Assembly Natural Resources Committee vote 9-3, and will establish a ‘robust’ extended producer responsibility program.

This would require producers across the industry to implement and fund a program to facilitate the reuse, repair, and recycling of clothing and textile fibres.

As the world grapples with the escalating climate crisis, this legislation represents a potentially transformative moment for sustainable fashion. But while advocates are celebrating, sceptics question whether it goes far enough to address the industry’s deeply ingrained issues.

The Textile Recycling Bill mandates that fashion brands selling in California must establish and participate in comprehensive textile recycling programs.

This legislation comes in response to the alarming statistics surrounding fashion waste: the equivalent of one garbage truck full of clothes is burned or sent to landfill every second globally.

Under the bill, companies will need to implement take-back schemes, ensuring that consumers can return used garments for recycling or repurposing.

Additionally, brands will reportedly be incentivized to use more sustainable materials and reduce the volume of waste they generate.

Supporters of the bill, including environmentalists and fashion activists, argue that this approach could significantly mitigate the environmental damage caused by the industry.

Senator Josh Newman, who spearheaded the reform, is among those celebrating what could turn out to be a watershed moment for sustainable fashion and textile production.

Calling it a ‘landmark, first-in-the country’ piece of legislation, Newman said he was ‘very proud of the thoughtful and thorough work, involving stakeholders at every point of the value chain, that has gone into SB 707 to produce a bill that will have an immensely positive impact on our state and on the environment.’

‘Textile waste is a growing environmental issue that will require innovation and collaboration. This bill, and the groundbreaking program it will enable, will make California a global leader in textile recycling and waste reduction.’

If passed, the Textile Recycling Bill could herald a new era for the fashion industry, one where sustainability is not just an option but a requirement.

The industry has long operated on a linear model of take-make-dispose, but this legislation could accelerate the shift towards a circular economy, where products are designed with their entire lifecycle in mind.

Brands would need to rethink their production processes, opting for materials that are easier to recycle and investing in technologies that can handle textile waste more efficiently.

This could spur innovation in fabric technology and waste management, potentially leading to breakthroughs that benefit the industry worldwide.

But that’s not to say SB 707 is without its faults. While the legislation is certainly a step in the right direction, it does little to address the root causes of fashion waste.

For instance, the bill focuses on the end-of-life of garments without considering the overproduction and overconsumption that are fundamental to the industry’s business model.

Overhauling the recycling requirements of textile producers could also wreak havoc on a system that is not yet robust enough to take on those changes.

Current recycling technologies are unable to process the complex blends of materials used in modern garments, which breeds scepticism about how much textile waste can realistically be repurposed.

There’s also the issue of enforcement. Bills like SB 707 are ambitious and commendable, but without stringent oversight they’re relatively futile. Many brands are unlikely to comply willingly, given the extra work and costs involved in restructuring their operations.

And besides the additional money needed to enforce such oversight, brands engaging in greener strategies without wholly believing in them extends a greenwashing attitude.

While the Textile Recycling Bill represents significant progress, it also highlights the need for a broader reimagining of the fashion industry.

That means addressing the entire lifecycle of garments – from design and production to consumption and disposal – as well as looking at the narratives that both enable and bolster a culture of overconsumption and waste.

Consumers play a crucial role in this transformation. By supporting brands that prioritise sustainability and adopting more mindful consumption habits, individuals can drive demand for more responsible fashion practices.

Education and awareness campaigns are still essential in shifting public perceptions and encouraging more sustainable consumer behaviour. We hold the power!

Contributing Writer Brighton, UK

I’m Flo, (She/Her) a remote writer at Thred. I recently completed a Masters in Visual Anthropology, and seek to interrogate the ways digital spaces can amplify marginalised voices in the arts and cultural sectors. Follow me on LinkedIn or ping me some feedback via email.

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