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Is ‘gimmick’ fashion sustainable?

Novelty and gimmick fashion is taking the internet by storm. But are these hyped products any good for the planet? 

Coperni may be a popular clothing brand, but the Parisian company tends to make headlines for its marketing gimmicks and technological innovations more than its clothes.

I’m sure you’ve all seen that video of Bella Hadid’s spray painted dress. Well, that was the brainchild of Coperni’s design duo Arnauld Vaillant and Sébastien Meye. And this week they’ve one-upped themselves with a new viral handbag made from… air.

The brand’s trademark Air Swipe bag has been recreated in a range of different materials, including glass. But their latest iteration is out-of-this-world, literally.

Vaillant and Meye worked with a NASA-approved material known as Aerogel to create the lightest Air Swipe bag yet – and the lightest bag period, for that matter.

 

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Aerogel is made from 99% air 1% glass, and is the lightest known solid on earth. In the past, NASA has used the material to capture stardust.

Like many novelty fashion moments, the new bag has drawn a mixed response online – the most obvious question being, can you actually use it? But fans of Coperni have argued this is besides the point.

‘[Coperni] consistently demonstrates its commitment to innovation and novelty. Leveraging the success of a marketable signature bag shape as a foundation, the label is pushing the boundaries of significant concepts such as the convergence of art and science’ said arts and fashion commentator 1 Granary.

Yet, beneath the viral success lies a deeper question of sustainability – both in terms of environmental impact and genuine creativity.

The fervour surrounding Coperni’s creations, particularly the Aerogel bag, highlights the fashion world’s current fixation on a ‘moment.’ This moment, often a large-scale and big-budget production, aims to captivate audiences and generate buzz, regardless of its ecological consequences.

 

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Charlie Elizabeth Culverhouse has spoken about this concept at length, citing the internet as the birthplace of fashion’s novelty era.

‘We can blame the internet, as we can with so many things, for the reduced attention span of society, the speeding up of the trend cycle, and the desire to be ‘liked’.’ says Culverhouse. ‘These have somewhat justified the use of sensationalism and gimmicks, not just by TikTokers wishing to make a quick buck, but by fashion houses attempting to capitalise on ‘The Moment’.’

These high-octane fashion moments – like Coperni’s spray on dress – are usually expensive, require months of research and development, and the results last moments. The products at the end are often one-of-a-kind, and unavailable to the wider public.

It could be argued that this scarcity leans toward a more sustainable future in fashion, one where we labour over fleeting moments, rather than opting for mass production.

But pouring so many resources into something that is, at the end of the day, mostly unusable, has its downsides.

Coperni’s Aerogel bag has received criticism for this very reason; that the product has no benefits for consumers or the environment.

‘Real innovation would be something that benefits the environment and the consumer. Like the work being done with mushrooms and cactus to make genuinely vegan leather alternatives. This is pointless’ one Instagram user said beneath a post celebrating Coperni’s ‘innovation.’

Another suggested the brand in fact had ‘Zero innovation. They didn’t develop or even really research anything. This is an off the shelf product.’

Aerogel is already in use by NASA and has a significant presence in the world of science, where it holds practical value. For some, this is ‘Far more impressive than a bag that can only be held with rubber gloves.’ As one user argued, ‘What can you put in it? 99% air = emperor’s new clothes.’

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@coperni unveils it’s Air Swipe Bag made from Nasa’s silica aerogel 🪐#TikTokFashion #Coperni #Bag #FashionWeek

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The production of high-tech materials like Aerogel entails energy-intensive processes, casting a shadow over the purported innovation of such creations.

And while one could argue that objects like the Aerogel bag are works of ‘art’ more so than anything else, Coperni are ultimately a fashion brand with eager customers.

As those customers clamour for the latest “it” item, brands like Coperni must confront the paradox of creating desire while grappling with the imperative of sustainability.

The proliferation of gimmick fashion perpetuates a culture of disposability, wherein trends are embraced fleetingly before being discarded in favour of the next shiny object.

This cycle of consumption not only exacerbates environmental degradation but also undermines the notion of fashion as a form of enduring self-expression and creativity. In the relentless pursuit of the next online sensation, brands risk sacrificing authenticity and craftsmanship at the altar of viral fame.

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