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Respecting Everest may be the key to lowering death toll

As 2019 marks a record year for deaths on Mount Everest, experts worry that the mountain’s commercialisation is misrepresenting the severity of the climb.

When asked in a 1923 interview with The Times about his determination to climb to the top of the world’s highest peak, George Mallory replied ‘because it’s there’.

Mallory’s statement lies at the heart of the fascination human beings continue to feel for Everest, and goes a long way to explain why over 4000 people to date have been willing to risk their lives in order to follow in his icy footsteps, of which over 400 have died. Everest represents a kind of sanctioned madness for those who attempt it. For many it sustains the human need for the superlative, giving an upper limit to the human experience that can become an obsessive goal for many. Marvin Gaye hit the nail on the head when he said that there ain’t no river wide, valley low, or mountain high enough to stop humanity from attempting to conquer it.

But the rhetoric around Everest has changed vastly since the exalted times of Mallory. Where Everest was once the pinnacle of human endeavour, it’s now easier than ever to climb the mountain with the help of Sherpas if you’re willing to fork out for it. With social media providing both an avenue for mountaineering companies to advertise trips to laymen audiences and for climbers to widely share picture of themselves summiting, the commercialisation of Everest has made it seem like merely a decent opportunity for the ‘gram, rather than a life-threatening challenge.

During the 2019 climbing season a record 381 climbers ascended Everest, leading to 11 deaths – almost double that of last year. The mountain is not only more crowded, but more polluted than ever before, leading experts to question whether what was once an individual achievement for the exaltation of many has become a selfish endeavour.


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Successfully climbing Everest requires years and years of training, and a significant amount of previous climbing experience. Solo climbs – misleadingly named given that a Sherpa must be present on every climb – are far rarer than the commercial ‘group’ climbs offered by mountaineering companies.

These companies make a large profit from stacking expenses onto the $11,000 USD (£8,675) per person climbing permits issued by the Nepalese government, hiring large groups of Sherpas to lay ropes and plan routes, making the trip safer and more manageable. Given that the fees of these climb operators can reach up to $200,000 USD, competition for customers is growing as more professional guides seize the lucrative opportunity Everest presents.

In order to be first off the bat to attract the richest 1%, it’s within the interest of these companies to advertise heavily, and to make the climb seem achievable. A quick glance at the website of one of the most popular trekking groups, Adventure Consultants, shows a rhetoric of seduction. ‘To stand at the pinnacle of the earth is one of life’s most rewarding experiences’, announces the banner. Who wouldn’t be tempted?!

Contributing to the view of Everest as a feasible half-term break are well publicised stories of socialites and millionaires, such as Sandy Hill in 1996, successfully climbing the mountain in guided tours. In 2013, 80-year-old Yuichiro Miura became the oldest person to summit the mountain. However, what’s often left out of these tales of victory is that these people had a lot of help – instead of making the descent, Miura was airlifted off the summit. Far younger and more experienced climbers have died in similar conditions.

But the ‘if they can do it so can I’ mentality persists. Whilst the Adventure Consultants website does clearly state that the trek has a ‘high’ level of difficulty, and requires an ‘extremely high’ level of fitness, it avoids any explicit mention of past deaths or disasters, with the carousel of pictures showing happy, healthy mountaineers achieving their summit dreams wearing smiles on their faces.

What’s more, if you go on this website (anyone can) you’ll immediately see the cogs begin to turn in the programmatic ad section of your computer. Not even half an hour after researching this article I began receiving ads for Everest tours on my Facebook and Instagram. Me, who gets puffed climbing the stairs to my office.

In a culture of digital advertising run by algorithms, it seems professional guides and tech are (perhaps unwittingly) catfishing well-off travellers into believing that tackling one of the world’s most difficult tasks is well within their wheelhouse.


Social Media

Further contributing to the misrepresentation of the danger of Everest, many of those who do have the right experience – or the right guides – to reach the top have taken to sharing their achievement on social media.

On May 22nd of this year, during the second ‘window’ for summit attempts from Camp IV, Nepalese climber Nirmal Purja took a photo that quickly went viral of a traffic jam at the ‘Hillary Step’ – the final wall of ice separating the climbers from the peak of the mountain.

Around 250 climbers attempted to reach the summit on the 22nd – far more than the single-file Hillary Step allows for. Instead of turning back, however, many queued in extremely dangerous conditions, with their oxygen tanks rapidly depleting, in order to get the coveted ‘summit selfie’.

Film-maker Elia Saikaly, who summited on May 23rd this year, describes people clambering over one another in order to take photos. He then describes the descent, the most dangerous part of the journey, as ‘Death. Carnage. Chaos. Lineups. Dead bodies on the route and in tents at Camp 4.’ It’s likely that the delays caused by the photo ops, and the rabid attempts to capture the ‘perfect Everest selfie’, cost climbers crucial time.

Adventurer and TV star Ben Fogle told The Daily Mail that, of all the dangers Everest poses, he fears crowds most. ‘Those making their descent had to wait hours to get past the slow-moving mass of climbers still ascending. No one could move faster than the slowest person. The extra hours could spell the difference between life and death.’

 

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There is so much magic in these mountains. They represent adventure in the grandest form and in a language all their own. The idea of standing at the base of the world’s tallest peak with @eddiebauer, a brand that has been outfitting record-setting climbers since the beginning – from the first American ascent in 1963 (Jim Whittaker) to our guide @melissaarnot, the first American Woman to ascend and descend Everest without oxygen, is truly beyond my wildest imagination. Traversing this terrain has its challenges. Breathing at altitude, for instance, is not easy. One of the greatest gifts/lessons that Melissa simultaneously bestowed on us during this trek was the fine art of pressure breathing. It makes all the difference as you climb higher. It’s essentially a big inhale and a sharp, forceful exhale, like you’re blowing out a candle across the room, to open up your lungs, allowing you to use more oxygen, etc… Besides hydration and staying nourished, breathing is THE vital key in the fight against altitude sickness. It’s also a major takeaway that I will be employing back to the real world whether I’m in the midst of a tough workout or a weird day. Mind blown. So as we weaved around the Himalayas from 14,400ft-16,200ft-17,600ft: this particular technique was essential in propelling us forward. Needless to say, this part of the world holds a very special place in @melissaarnot’s heart so her willingness to share it, as well as her time, knowledge and endless trove of stories were so appreciated by all of us lucky enough to walk alongside her this past week. Her belief in our abilities to keep moving and ultimately make it to the base of the Mighty, Mighty Mt. Everest was so powerful. Spoiler alert: we made it!!! It’s impossible to be lucky enough to arrive at the foot of these mammoth peaks and not be attuned to the palpable energy of all of those who came before and lost their lives in these mountains. The wave of emotion: respect, reverence, appreciation….that washed over us as we took in the prayer flags and yellow domed tents of basecamp AND sat on the rocks regarding the chortens that dot the hillside of the Tukla Pass the day before, profoundly

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An issue of the older generation

It’s worth noting that the average age of those who died on Everest this year was 41. Indeed, the average age of Everest summiteers in general is 38 – decades older than the expected age in other elite sports. Whilst this is largely due to financial constraints, generational attitudes also undoubtedly play their part.

According to advertising experts The Work Crowd, digital and social media marketing that can be classified as misleading or unrepresentative is far more effective on crowds over the age of 35. Gen Z and young millennials have grown up in the age of digital advertising, and so are savvier to the tricks of the trade.

Millennials were the first to openly object to marketing fakery, protesting airbrushed models and publicity stunts in a movement that’s trickled down and become stronger in younger generations. Young people are more likely to cast a critical gaze over advertising material, whereas it’s unsurprising that an older generation who grew up on the glory of Edmund Hillary’s ascent can be lured into the illusion of Everest victory.

Moreover, the fact that the crowds on Everest tend to be older is unlikely to help the pollution issues the mountain and surrounding areas are currently facing. In 2017 climbers in Nepal brought down nearly 25 tonnes of trash and 15 tonnes of human waste – the equivalent of three double-decker buses – according to the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC). Five years ago Nepal implemented a $4,000 USD rubbish deposit per team that would be refunded if each climber brought down at least eight kgs of waste. However, local Sherpas claim that often the richest clients will bribe Nepalese officials to overlook this tax.

Whilst respect for the environment has been drummed into Gen Z from day dot due to climate change defining our social conscience, that is not the case for older generations. According to Pablo Figueroa, Environmental scientist at Waseda University and Everest Summiteer, most climbers see the summit as something that must be achieved at all costs, and have little regard for the surrounding community. Figueroa believes that ‘the mess at the top of the world is socially caused, and it has to do with the naturalization, promotion and exaltation of a culture of ambition and self-glory.’


What’s to be done

There has been calls for the Nepalese and Tibetan governments to raise the price of an Everest climbing permit in order to reduce crowds. But this is a big ask, as the relatively poor country of Nepal brings in approximately $5.2 million per year in permit fees – a sum they’re unlikely to give up.

Nepalese officials are belatedly considering setting proficiency standards for climbers and limiting the numbers on the mountain to reduce congestion and garbage at the summit. Currently there are technically no restrictions on who can climb Everest. This might go some way to reduce crowds, however the only thing that’s likely to truly help is to shift public attitudes towards the concept of the mountain altogether.

Himalayan Sherpas have been watching the mountain they revere – and which is a source of work for many of them – slipping further away from sanctity with each passing year, and they’re calling for change. Ang Tshering Sherpa, founder of Asian Trekking, has urged climbers to do more research on the cultural history of the region before trekking there.

Furthermore, Tshering has called for people to stop seeing the mountain as a ‘challenge’ to be conquered, but rather as something that is to be respected. This will necessitate not only a change of attitude in the climbers, but in the mountaineering companies as well. Ads targeted at suitable audiences, and more accurate information on companies’ websites, is a crucial step to alleviate the pressure on next years climbing season. Moreover, an emphasis that the summit is not necessarily guaranteed may urge climbers to consider the journey as well as just the peak.

For some people, climbing is a passion, and Everest a life-long goal. That should be respected. However, this should not come at the cost of other people’s safety or the health of the surrounding environment. No selfie is worth your life.

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